1964-1965 Falcon & Comet
Dash Pad Installation Instructions

Preparation

   Prior to attempting the installation of your new dash pad the following issues need to be addressed: 

1. Remove the windshield garnish moldings.
2. Remove the sun visor moldings and the A pillar moldings.
3. Remove the lower dash pad trim molding assembly.
4. Clean any old adhesive and foam that may be left on the steel dash tray surface.

Installation

   Your new dash pad was delivered to you with 10 clips preinstalled in the black side of the pad. They are aligned at the factory and will be very close to the factory slots in your steel dash. We have found that some lateral adjustment may be necessary to fit your particular application. Keep in mind that this pad fits multiple applications. It is recommended that the installer place the pad upon the dashboard area, tipping the pad upward to allow visual inspection of the clips and the slots. At this point adjust the pad left or right as needed and adjust the clips laterally to align with the slots.

1. Do not trim any material from your new pad yet!
2. Extra material has purposely been left intact around the ends and lower edges of your pad. It is the installer’s responsibility to ensure that he or she does not remove too much material. We highly recommend that the finished trimming is completed at the end of dash installation only. With pressure being applied to the dash pad in a forward direction, start at the passenger side of the vehicle and engage the tip of the first (right hand) clip. Before pressing the first clip completely into the first slot, align the second clip with the second slot. This method allows you to travel across the dash towards the driver side of the vehicle pressing in one clip at a time until all 10 clips are engaged. Use steady pressure downward on the pad while coaxing the clips into the slots. We have found that a second set of hands does help in fitting the clips into the slots. These clips were probably not one of Henry’s better design ideas and it is difficult to maintain the engagement of all 10 clips. It is our experience that multiple attempts are sometime necessary to get 100% clip engagement.
3. Once the clips have been engaged it is time to focus on the lower garnish molding. Again with mild forward and downward pressure on the pad use a punch or sharp awl to locate the holes that hold the lower garnish clips in place. Keep in mind that if you distort the pad during this locating process that the finished installation will mirror that distortion. Keep the pad as straight horizontally as possible during the locating process. We found that lying on our backs under the dash allowed us to locate the holes in the metal much easier than from above. Again the help of a second set of hands from above comes in handy.
4. Once all of the holes are located and punched through the vinyl you may then begin installing the lower garnish molding. We started at the center of the pad and worked out way to the ends one lip at a time. With all the clips installed the pad will be protruding from beneath the molding. Now is the time to carefully trim away the excess pad and foam. Be very careful during this process. The pad must stay clipped under the molding for secure installation.
5. The A pillar moldings may now be installed and then the sun visor moldings. Again use an exacto type blade to contour the ends of the pad that are exposed between the lower pad molding and the A pillar molding.Congratulations on the Installation of Your New Dash Pad.

Installation Instructions for the 1960 – 1963
Ford Falcon Dash Pad

Dash Pad Preparation

   Prior to attempting installation of you new dash pad the following issues need to be addressed:

1. Remove both the right and left inside A pillar moldings.
2. Remove both the right & left lower inside trim moldings.
3. Remove the speaker grille.
4. Remove both defroster cones.
5. Remove the radio speaker.
6. Remove the stainless trim moldings that encompass the lower edge of the dash pad. Use extreme caution when removing these moldings. They are held in place with spring clips and damage to the metal dash and/or the moldings can result if handled improperly.
7. Remove any old foam or adhesive from the steel dash. This surface needs to be free of all foreign matter to allow for the best fit of the new dash pad. This is a great time to check your skill level. You have been provided with the best fitting product for your Ford Falcon. However, some trimming will be required during the installation process. Your new dash pad was fitted to a stock metal trim fixture prior to shipment to you, as part of the manufacturer’s Quality Assurance Program. Some applications will still require edge trimming and slight foam trimming for the best fitment to your vehicle. If you are uncomfortable with performing these adjustments PLEASE STOP NOW! It will be in your best interests to consult a professional upholstery installer. ONCE THE DASH PAD HAS BEEN TRIMMED OR ALTERED IN ANY WAY, IT IS NON RETURNABLE.

Dash Pad Installation

   Your new dash pad does not need adhesive for installation. The factory trim moldings will sufficiently secure the pad in position. Do not use any contact cement, PERIOD, as it will cause nothing but problems. Ideal installation temperature is 75-80 degrees which will allow the pad to remain flexible during installation. Do not allow the dash pad to sit in extreme heat or direct sunlight for any extended time. The pad will distort and be ruined if subjected to these conditions prior to installation.

1. Slide the new dash pad onto the metal dash. Check the front edge and curved side edges of the dash pad. They should conform to the metal dash and the front edge where the trim molding will later be installed. Use your hand to check the fitment of the speaker-recessed area of the dash pad to the metal frame underneath. Feeling along the rear edge of the speaker recess you will be able to tell if the dash pad is far enough forward on the metal dash. Gently press the pad forward to allow the pad to slip down into the recessed metal dash. If your dash pad fails to move forward far enough to fit the opening it will be necessary to pull the dash pad away from metal dash and observe the far ends of the dash pad where it contacts the metal dash of the vehicle. Your dash pad may need some foam material removed from the back side of the dash pad where the end horns meet the metal dash. The manufacturer has initially removed some material from this area. However your vehicle may require some further removal of the foam material. Take your time and remove small amounts of foam material in increments checking the fitment often.
2. Remember, you are only removing foam from the ends of the dash pad that might be contacting the rearward protruding horns of the metal dash. Do not get carried away here. You can destroy your new dash pad if too much material is removed.
3. Slight trimming of the vinyl skin may be needed on each end of your new dash pad. As the pad fits forward on the metal dash, the front ends will need to be relieved slightly to avoid tearing the dash pad. Temporarily install the stainless steel trim end caps and the A pillar moldings to test fit how much trimming is allowed. Once the pad drops into the radio speaker recess you are ready to begin fine tuning the outside perimeter of the new dash pad. You have been provided with enough material on the dash pad to allow the trim moldings to cover the edges of the pad. USE EXTREME CAUTION! Do not trim away too much material from the edges on your new dash pad. Very little material if any needs to be removed. TAKE YOUR TIME. The final appearance of your new dash pad depends on it.
4. Use a razor knife to trim away the openings for the defroster cones. Only trim away what you need to install the defroster cones. If you are installing an in-dash radio speaker, you should also trim out that area. Install the speaker grille.
5. It is now time to install the lower windshield trim moldings. Do not tighten any of the screws until all of them have been started. Then gently tighten all screws evenly. Do not over tighten these trim molding mounting screws as leakage of the windshield rubber seal could occur.
6. Fit and install the A pillar moldings.
7. Installation of lower stainless steel trim moldings: Apply a light downward pressure to the dash pad and use an awl to locate the mounting holes for the trim clips. With the clips mounted in the stainless trim moldings begin pressing the moldings in place. Apply pressure only directly over the clip location or the molding will be bent. Continue until all clips are seated. Install the screws in the end caps.
8. Inspect the installation and when you are satisfied with the fitment, use a razor knife to gently trim away excess material from beneath the lower trim molding. Be careful and do not scratch the paint of the metal dash.
9. FINISHED.

 

1960-1965 Ford Falcon & Mercury Comet Manual Steering Conversion 6 Cylinder to V-8

There are several different points of view on converting the Falcon/Comet manual steering from the 6 cylinder set up to the V-8. We are presenting our point of view to educate the customer so they can make the decision that is correct for them. The main reason to convert the steering and front end components is to upgrade to V-8 brakes, whether disc or drums. We have found that the majority of our customers want to use the 1974-1979 Granada disc brakes. We are not prepared to go into all of the options and pros and cons of different braking systems at this time, only to get the necessary steering components in place so that you will be able to attach the spindles and brakes of your choice.

1960-1962

The early Falcons have their own set of circumstances that must first be dealt with. The ball joint studs on these early cars are too small to accept the later spindles. We recommend changing both the upper and lower control arms to the 1963-1965 Falcon/Comet control arms. The 1963-1965 Falcons/Comets do not have this problem and the ball joints should only be replaced if they are worn out.

1960-1965

We are aware that Ford did some strange things in the production of these cars and subsequent owners have done some even stranger things. We are going to make an assumption that may or may not be true in all situations. We assume that if you have a 6 cylinder Falcon/Comet produced between 1960-1965, it has a 1″ sector shaft in the steering gear box. You can verify this fact very easily. If a 1-1/8″ socket will fit on the nut that retains the pitman arm to the sector shaft, then you have a 1″ sector shaft. If it takes a larger socket, then you have a 1-1/8″ sector shaft and someone has probably changed the steering box.

The main ingredient to the steering conversion is the center link. The only product that will fit correctly must come from a 1963-1964 or 1965 V-8 Ford Falcon/Comet. The 1963-1964 and the 1965 center link are completely different and cannot be interchanged. We recommend the 1965 V-8 center link for several reasons. The first reason is that the 1965 center link is reproduced and readily available. The second reason is cost, not the cost of a used 1963-1964 manual steering center link versus a the cost of a new 1965 manual steering center link, but rather the cost of the attaching parts. If replacement parts are ever needed, it is much less expensive to use the 1965 parts.